Intro to PR9 | What it is & Tips

PR9, Levada do Caldeirão Verde, is one of the best hikes on Madeira Island. It's a scenic levada walk with gorgeous natural features. A levada is a long system of channels or aqueducts that carry water from various sources for various uses; uses include human consumption, agriculture, and electrical energy production. The word 'levada' comes from the Portuguese verb 'levar' which means 'to carry'. Typically, they border and/or go through mountains—there are many walks on the island (such as this one) that follow a path next to these channels of water.

Beginning at the Queimadas Forest Park, you're greeted with two traditional Santana houses—historical houses famous for their triangular thatched roofs—that genuinely appear to be straight out of a fairytale. Just past the houses you'll find the entrance to the trail. The name of the hike, Levada do Caldeirão Verde, translates to 'Green Cauldron', and it stays true to its name. It's a vibrant, green paradise that brings you through the forest, into some ¹tunnels, and along the side of a mountain where you'll walk a path with beautiful views. Some parts are extremely narrow, with fern-covered high cliffs and the levada on one side, while panoramic views with a huge drop-off frame the other, giving off a strong rush of adrenaline.

¹Some of the tunnels along this trail are rather low and you'll have to duck down to get through. The top of the tunnel can be sharp so be extra careful and don't keep the flashlight at your feet; instead, you have to keep the flashlight at eye level to make sure you don't bump your head.

The trail ultimately reaches a beautiful 100-meter high waterfall. I brought a small packed lunch so I could combine the hike with a picnic at the fall, and I absolutely loved it! Since it was such an incredible day, this trail made my top 3 hikes on Madeira Island—the other two being PR8 and PR1. You should know that the waterfall area has been legally closed to the public since 2019, when there was a large landslide where some people were injured.

There is a sign that says it is closed, however at your own discretion it is possible to go around it. Please be careful if you pass the sign—common, but risky—to get up close to the waterfall as there aren't many places to run if another landslide begins. The water flows from the fall into a small lagoon below. It's possible to swim but it's freezing cold so I don't recommend it. It is a there-and-back hike, so after the waterfall, return the same way you came. Read on for more details!

Santana & How to Get to PR9

If you're driving, there's a parking lot at the trailhead, and you can skip ahead to hike duration and distance! If you aren't sure how you're getting there, but definitely know you won't be driving, read on.

The only town near Queimadas Forest Park is Santana, around an 11 minute drive away. Santana is accessible by bus (SAM bus lines 56 and 138), however, there are no ride share apps (e.g. Uber) available in Santana. Take it from me, do not take the bus to town with plans to grab a taxi to take you the rest of the way. I did this the first time I attempted the hike, and there was not a single available taxi in all of Santana to take us to the trail start. And honestly, I'm very glad there wasn't, because after actually doing the hike on a different day, I realized we would have never found a taxi back to the bus stop. We probably would have been stuck at PR9 (unless we hitchhiked) and had to sleep on the ground. Okay, I'm being a little melodramatic, but still.

Why didn't we walk from Santana? Well, the walk between the bus stop in Santana and PR9's start is ~1 hour and 15 minutes, bringing the total walking time to ~6.5 hours. We just weren't up for that, but if you are, it is possible. If you go this route, make sure you know the time of the last bus you need to catch and plan accordingly so you're not stuck in Santana overnight. Or, do this, and do stay overnight (but with a plan)!

SO, now that I've got my stories and advice out of the way... how do you actually get there? There are two options—drive yourself (car rentals in Funchal are ~€30-50/day) or book a transfer or tour online. We took a transfer—most companies only pick you up from Funchal, Caniço, Santa Cruz or Machico areas in the south/southeast. If you're in the northern side (e.g. Seixal) it's harder to find transfers, so you may need to head to the south for pickup (this you can do via bus!). Companies typically give you ~5 hours to complete the hike, which is plenty of time to sit and have lunch, stop for photos, and grab a coffee at the café when you're done.

After our first attempt, once we had already taken the bus from Funchal and were in Santana anyway, we ended up taking a hiking loss and exploring the town. We saw some traditional houses, had a meal with some poncha, and walked to one of the many coastal viewpoints that Santana offers. The viewpoint was called Miradouro de Santo António, and you walk through a qiant, quiet village to get there. We made friends with a village dog who sweetly walked with us from his home all the way to the viewpoint—a great little tour guide! If you drive (since this side-trip is not possible with transfers) I highly recommend turning the hike at PR9 into a full day of exploration by combining it with Santana.

(L) Miradouro de Santo António (R)Traditional house in Santana

Hike Duration and Distance

The trail is 6.5km there and 6.5km back (13 km total), with the waterfall located at the end of the first 6.5km. It takes around 4 hours to walk the whole thing, taking lunch and photo stops into account. There is another trail called the 'Caldeirão do Inferno' that carries on for another 2.2km after the waterfall, however it has been closed for years for safety reasons. Start early to avoid crowds—aim for a morning SIMplifica slot.

Difficulty Level

It's a long, but very easy hike since it is relatively flat—it only has ~100 meters of elevation gain throughout the entire trail. Be careful on the narrow portions of the path since they're all next to steep drop-offs, and be particularly careful when you have to pass others moving in opposite directions, since it can be very tight! If you have a fear of heights, the exposed sections might feel challenging despite the physical ease.

What to Wear

When I first arrived the sky was clear and sunny, and on my way back the clouds rolled in. The green forest became cloaked in fog, turning the trail into a mystical wonderland. I got the best of both worlds! Because of this, I recommend dressing accordingly for the weather conditions on the island at the time of your visit (e.g. shorts during the on-season and long pants during off-season), but layering with a rain jacket—Madeira's weather can shift quickly! Also be sure to wear sturdy hiking shoes with good grip; paths can be slippery when wet.

Photos taken at the start of the hike with beautiful weather, and at the end in the fog

What to Bring

Here are some of the essentials:

• Phone with a flashlight for the dark tunnels
• Portable phone charger
• Packed lunch or snacks
• At least 1L of water
• Light rain jacket
• Bathing suit & towel if you want to try swimming in the lagoon (again, as a reminder, it's freezing!)

Amenities at PR9

Some of the facilities offered at the forest park are:

• Large parking lot, available for €2/hour often with a €10 daily cap; get your exit ticket from the café to leave
• Free bathrooms in a small concrete building adjacent to the lot
• A café-cash only-inside one of the Santana houses at the trails start; serves coffee and light snacks

There are no amenities along the trail itself, so use facilities at the start/end. After completing the long hike, it was so nice getting a well-deserved latte at the café to warm me up from the chilly mist before heading back to Funchal!

If you've made it this far, you're probably as hooked on Madeira's trails as I am—PR9's lush forest, misty tunnels, and rushing waterfall make it a must-do for anyone seeking the island's raw beauty. If PR9 has you craving more, check out my guides to PR1 (Pico do Areeiro to Pico Ruivo) for breathtaking landscapes and PR8 (Vereda da Ponta de São Lourenço) for arid sea views, rounding out my top 3.

For broader inspiration, dive into my 7 Things to Do in Madeira Island or explore Funchal's highlights in my other posts. Safe hikes, and tag me on my socials with your Madeira stories—I'd love to hear them!