Overview
As one of the 7 wonders of the world, the once bustling Incan citadel known as Machu Picchu is breathtaking. Set in the Andes mountains of Perú, this 15th century gem still remains somewhat of a mystery as to what exactly the people of the Incan empire used the since-abandoned mountain for. It was discovered accidentally in 1911 and archaeologists and historians alike have disagreed ever since on its true purpose. The Incans were mostly wiped out by Spanish invaders in the 16th century, and the knowledge of what Machu Picchu was specifically used for passed with them. Theories include being a royal retreat for Incan emperors and nobles, a sacred place for worship, a holy nunnery, or that it was built to honor the landscape which they had considered sacred. People now refer to Machu Picchu as the "Lost City of the Incas" as the mystery behind the ruins combined with the pure beauty of its structure and setting draw in over 1.5 million visitors each year.
Since the ancient ruins of Machu Picchu are located deep in the Peruvian mountains it's not surprising that it's not very easy to get there. Machu Picchu is located in a town in the Andes called Aguas Calientes; there are no paved roads leading to the town, so your only options to get there are taking a train (or bus and train combination) or trekking for a few days from the closest towns (namely Cusco or villages in the Sacred Valley such as Ollaytantambo or Urubamba).
When is the best time to visit Machu Picchu?
Machu Picchu is open for visiting every day year-round, however dry season is from Late April/early May to October, with the months of June, July and August being peak tourist season. The rainy season of late November to March is warmer and less crowded but produces more frequent heavy showers. I recommend visiting during the transition period from dry to rainy season - we visited in mid-November and there were significantly less crowds and it didn't rain for our entire trip!
You'll have to pick a time slot for your Machu Picchu tickets (I'll talk more about this in the 'entrance tickets' section), so which time should you pick to avoid crowds, have the clearest skies and get the best views? Machu Picchu is open between 6am and 5:30pm, with the last entry allowed at 3pm. If it's crowds you're looking to avoid, visit either right at opening time to watch the sunrise or after 3pm. Also keep in mind Sundays are often the busiest since that is when locals are allowed to enter Machu Picchu for free. If it's weather thats your concern as clouds do often reach down and touch the mountains, then between 11 and 2 is the best time to visit. Mornings are often thick with mist that clears out by mid-day, while clouds have a higher possibility of creeping back in around late afternoon/early evening.
Overall, visiting between the dry and rainy seasons between 11am and 2pm from Monday-Saturday is my recommendation.
So, How Do I Get to Machu Picchu?
Your first step to arriving in Machu Picchu is to get to the city of Cusco. To do this, depending on where you're coming from, you will have to first fly into the Peruvian capital of Lima since there are no direct flights to Cusco. At the least, your flight will have a layover in the capital city. After arriving in Cusco you will take either a train or bus and train combination to ultimately arrive in Aguas Calientes (or, if you're very adventurous and prepared, you will instead drive 2.5 hours outside of Cusco city and begin your 3-5 day trek). Once in Aguas Calientes you can either hop on a bus or hike to the top of the mountain where Machu Picchu lies.
Lima - Peru's Capital City
As I mentioned, when flying into Cusco you will likely have to stop in the capital city Lima. If you'd like to make the most out of it I recommend staying in Lima for 2-3 days depending on what you would want to see there. Flights from Lima to Cusco are very cheap, starting around $40 USD per person, and it's hassle-free since it's a domestic flight. If you just want to do a bit of sightseeing, 2 days is plenty, and if taking day trips is your thing then 3 days should be enough. Some incredible day trips offered from Lima include visiting Paracas (a town in Perús west coast known for its beaches and swimming with sea lions) and Huacachina (a tiny village in the middle of the desert). Lima is very beautiful and definitely worth a visit.
(L-R) The Cliff Walk, The View From Larcomar Mall at Night, Lima Main Square
Cusco
Adjusting to the Altitude
When you arrive in Cusco I recommend spending a minimum of 3 days there so you have time to both explore the city and adjust to the altitude. Cusco is 11,152 feet above sea level which means altitude sickness will be your enemy being that where you're coming from is likely way lower than that. You may think you’ll be okay and won’t feel it (my boyfriend and I were confident we would be fine), but when we arrived going up a single flight of stairs had us winded. Cusco is full of hills, so you'll be working out your legs every day while walking around, likely even while simply coming and going from your accommodation. Don't be deterred by this - Cusco is insanely beautiful and there are plenty of ways to combat altitude sickness.
The best remedies start at of course bringing over-the-counter altitude sickness medicine found at any pharmacy. We purchased ours in Lima before flying to Cusco, taking one mid-flight and one each day we were there. If more natural remedies are your thing or the medicine isn't enough to help, Cusco has plenty of herbal teas readily available that combat the symptoms altitude sickness brings on (such as a migraine and nausea). Muña and coca tea are equally delicious and effective at relieving any symptoms - in Cusco they are sold at most grocery shops and offered at most restaurants to enjoy with a meal. Muña tea, also known as Andean mint tea, was used by the Incas for strengthening the immune system, relieving stomachaches and indigestion, and killing parasites and bacterial infections. Coca tea has gastrointestinal benefits and gives you a caffeine boost. While tea may not seem like it can be over-used, it can, so be sure to limit yourself to a healthy cup or two a day.
The Muña Tea Plant & Me Drinking Coca Tea at Sancris Restobar Mirador Restaurant
Top Things to do in Cusco
The last thing you would want is to feel sick when having a once in a lifetime experience, so staying in Cusco for a few days to adjust to the altitude before heading to Aguas Calientes and seeing Machu Picchu is a good idea. Besides, Cusco is so beautiful and has a lot to offer experience and sightseeing-wise. First, it is a must to wander the picturesque narrow streets and get a little lost! When I say Cusco is beautiful I'm not exaggerating. Wandering also gives you a chance to get acquainted with the culture and perhaps meet a few of the ancestors of the Incas, or pet a few llamas and alpacas.
You'll likely want to do some of the popular day trips that the city offers, such as Rainbow Mountain, Humantay Lake or Moray and the Salt Mines. There are plenty of tour companies around Cusco (particularly around Cusco main square or on the bustling street of Avenida El Sol) that have in-person next-day booking so you don't have to worry about scoring a tour in advance. However, travel websites including Get Your Guide or TripAdvisor also offer plenty of day trip packages from Cusco if you want to plan ahead. Rainbow mountain is the most popular day trip from Cusco, so keep in mind that it is 17,000 feet above sea level (almost 6,000 feet higher than Cusco) and if you don't feel the altitude too much in Cusco you are sure to feel it there, and therefore don't want to go the day (or even the day after) you arrive in Cusco.
Some of the top things to do in Cusco city that are not day trips include visiting the Saqsaywaman ruins (often referred to as "Sexy Woman Ruins" due to its pronunciation and spelling) - an ancient citadel, now a UNESCO world heritage sight, on top of a mountain overlooking the city. To get to the ruins you can walk from Cusco main square (Plaza de Armas) or take an Uber/taxi if you can't or don't want to walk up the hill. There are alpacas and llamas that roam the lands of the ruins so it's also exciting getting so close to them. Getting in costs 70 PEN (around $20 USD) - it's quite expensive but it includes entry into other ruins around Cusco such as Qenqo, Puka Pukara and Tambomachay. Nearby the ruins is the Statue of Christ - it's pretty underwhelming, but it's right next to the ruins so if you have the time and energy you might as well just walk over to see the view over Cusco at a slightly different angle.
Saqsaywaman Ruins
Of course you have to visit the Cusco main square called Plaza de Armas. It is surrounded by churches, restaurants and art galleries, and has a beautiful view of the surrounding mountains. It looks particularly gorgeous at night when the lights from the buildings on the mountains are lit up, making the hills sparkle. In the square is the Church of the Society of Jesus, which has an entry fee of 16 PEN (around $5 USD), and is wonderfully and intricately detailed on the inside. Just down a narrow street to the left of the Church of the Society of Jesus is Plaza San Blas where you will find a few shops that you can bargain with for cheap and beautiful homemade purses, ponchos and other souvenirs. Not far from the square are two must-visit museums, the Inka Museum and the Qorikancha museum - two of the best places in the city to learn about the history of the Incas.
(L-R) One of Cusco's Many Beautiful Streets, Cusco Main Square, The Church of the Society of Jesus
Food Recs
Some food recommendations I have include Sancris Restobar Mirador which is near the Saqsaywaman ruins, so I recommend walking down after the ruins to grab a bite. The food is amazing, there's balcony space, comfy seating and an incredible view of the city. Visit Qucharitas for delicious ice cream, desserts and coffees. It is so adorable on the inside, and the staff gives you a coloring page with colored pencils for you to draw while you're there, a concept that I found so sweet - as I looked around and saw a bunch of adults eating their desserts and intensely focused on their coloring my heart got a little warmer. Lastly located in the Plaza de Armas is Fusión Andina, a second floor restaurant with views that overlook the main square and really good food (I recommend the quinoa crusted chicken).
Sancris Restobar Mirador
(L) Fusión Andina, (R) Qucharitas
Train Tickets - Cusco to Aguas Calientes
After Cusco, the next step in your journey to Machu Picchu is taking either a train or a bus and train combination to get to Aguas Calientes. There are two different train companies that you can choose from - IncaRail and PeruRail. Both companies are very similar, being almost identical in tiers and price. Tiers are essentially the 'levels of luxury' that you can choose for your experience - the more luxurious, the more expensive.
IncaRail (Left) and PeruRail (Right)
Despite how similar they are I recommend using IncaRail when deciding between the lower tiers for a few reasons. First, IncaRails cheapest, most basic ticket is called "The Voyager" which is about $60 one way per person from Cusco to Aguas Calientes. This is often compared to PeruRails cheapest, most basic ticket called "The Expedition" which is the same price. However, I have seen both train cars, and "The Voyager" has much bigger, more panoramic windows than "The Expedition". From what I’ve seen, "The Voyager" is closer to PeruRails next available tier called "The Vistadome" which is around $80 one way per person. So, if you're planning on getting one of the three tiers that I mentioned (either The Voyager, Expedition or Vistadome), go with IncaRails "The Voyager".
Riding on IncaRails "The Voyager"
When it comes to splurging, however, if you have the money definitely get PeruRails Hiram Bingham over IncaRails First Class. It is more expensive but not by much, so if you can afford a bit more, then the Hiram Bingham in my opinion has more benefits.
When looking at IncaRails tickets online (PeruRail does not have this option), you will see that the tiers of "The Voyager" and "The 360" have a sub-tier of either Light, Plus or All Inclusive. Each sub-tier has specific benefits - "Light" is just simply the ticket, "Plus" includes hotel pick-up and drop-off, the bus ticket from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu and vice versa, and a shared guide to Machu Picchu (this is only for circuit 1; we will get to the circuits section of this Machu Picchu travel guide soon!). Lastly "All Inclusive" is everything from "Plus" except you instead get a private guide (for The 360 only, The Voyager stays shared) as well as your Machu Picchu entrance ticket (again, circuit 1 only where the guide will walk you through). "The First Class" is automatically "All Inclusive".
Here is a list of all the ticket options for each rail company and the benefits they include.
IncaRail
Cheapest Tier (Tier 1): Voyager
Sub-Tiers:
Light – $120 round trip
Plus - $180 round trip, hotel pick-up and drop-off, bus in Aguas Calientes to and from Machu Picchu, shared guide for Machu Picchu (circuit 1 only)
All Inclusive - $320 round trip, all benefits from "Plus" as well as snack and drink on board and Machu Picchu entrance ticket (circuit 1 only)
Tier 2 - The 360
Benefits: Panoramic windows (though I would argue "The Voyager" has panoramic windows too), open-air observatory car
Sub-Tiers:
Light - $180 round trip
Plus - $250 round trip, shared guide for Machu Picchu (circuit 1 only), bus in Aguas Calientes to and from Machu Picchu
All Inclusive - $380 round trip, all benefits from "Plus" (except guide is private, not shared) and Machu Picchu entrance ticket (circuit 1 only)
Tier 3 - The First Class
Benefits: Private lounge, outdoor balcony, comfier seats, 3 course menu, large panoramic windows, preferential boarding, bus in Aguas Calientes to and from Machu Picchu, Machu Picchu entrance ticket and private guide (circuit 1 only)
All inclusive class, $400 one way from Cusco to Aguas Calientes (not available for Aguas Calientes to Cusco - the available return tickets for the all inclusive class** range from $60-100)
Additional Information on IncaRail:
**You can mix and match which tier you get for your inbound and outbound trains, so if you want to do a super luxurious experience on the way there and something basic on the way back, you can do that. However, for IncaRail this comes with conditions. When you select a sub-tier (i.e. light, plus or all inclusive) you must also get that sub-tier for the return trip. Since "The First Class" is automatically "All Inclusive", your return trip must also be "All Inclusive". This does not mean you have to get the same ticket kind - for example if you get "The Voyager - All Inclusive" on the way there, you can get "The 360" on the way back, but it must be "The 360 - All Inclusive" (you will not be able to get "The 360" Light or Plus since you have the All Inclusive sub-tier on the way there. It must match for both trips).
For the return train (Aguas Calientes to Cusco) there is another main tier option called “Premium & Lounge”. The same rule applies that if you choose this option, you still have to get the same sub-tier as your inbound ticket. This return option is different from the others because it has more comfortable seats, snacks, live music and preferential boarding; "Plus "and "All Inclusive" for this tier include hotel drop-off.
My boyfriend and I are often budget travelers so we took "The Voyager - Light" for a round trip with IncaRail and paid a total of $234 USD, which I think is a great deal! Our experience was incredible - I'm not sure if PeruRail does this, but we had a very cool welcoming ceremony (video below) on the way to the train and even got to see a cultural show while on the train, despite getting the cheapest tickets!!
IncaRail's 'Welcoming Ceremony'
PeruRail
Cheapest Tier (Tier 1): Expedition
$120 round trip
Basic ticket (IncaRails "Voyager" has much better windows. Don’t get this one - not worth it.)
Tier 2: Vistadome:
$160 round trip
Panoramic windows, snack, "cultural representation" (return only) and baby alpaca collection (return only, apparently some kind of fashion show and the items are for sale)
More equivalent to IncaRails "Voyager", but The Voyager is still cheaper and just as good, if not better, so don’t get this one either.
Tier 3: Vistadome Observatory:
$230 round trip
Everything from the "Vistadome" plus an observatory car
Similar to IncaRails "The 360"
Tier 4: Hiram Bingham
$975 round trip
Very luxurious train, dining car with gourmet lunch and dinner, a bar car, an observatory car, cocktails in the mountains at The Sanctuary Lodge (A Belmond Hotel), VIP waiting rooms, entrance ticket to Machu Picchu and private tour guide, live music show, bus in Aguas Calientes to and from Machu Picchu
Comparable to IncaRails "First Class", but this one appears to have more benefits
Bimodial Train Tickets
When buying tickets, don't be surprised if they are listed as “bimodial”. All this means is that part of the railroad is closed (usually due to weather conditions or the season of your visit) so you have to first ride a bus through your chosen rail company (IncaRail or PeruRail) to a town called Ollantaytambo, where you will then get on the train to get to Aguas Calientes. This is all part of the tickets you purchased, so you will still meet at the rail companies building in downtown Cusco regardless of whether you have a bimodial or regular train ticket. The IncaRail and PeruRail buildings are about a block or two away from each other on Avenida El Sol - a large, busy street not far from the Plaza de Armas.
Ollantaytambo
As a side option, instead of catching the train/bus on Avenida El Sol in Cusco, you can get yourself to Ollantaytambo or the town of Urubamba and get on the train there. This is offered on the rail companies websites, and the tickets are probably cheaper since its closer to Aguas Calientes than Cusco city. All pricing I did above was from Cusco to Aguas Calientes.
What Days Should You Get Your Train Tickets For?
You don’t have to get your inbound and outbound train tickets on the same day - I actually recommend not having them on the same day. Here are some options I'll present to you:
Same Day: Take the train to Aguas Calientes in the morning, visit Machu Picchu in late morning/afternoon, and take the train back to Cusco in the evening.
Next Day: Take the train to Aguas Calientes in the morning, visit Machu Picchu in late morning/afternoon, spend the rest of the day relaxing and exploring the town, sleep there and take the train back to Cusco the next morning,
Multiple Days: Take the train to Aguas Calientes on day 1, visit Machu Picchu on day 2, and return to Cusco on day 3.
We went the 'next day' route, and it provided us with just enough time to be able to relax and explore the town a bit. We stayed at 'Rupa Rupa High Jungle B&B' for $55 for the night, including a delicious breakfast on the terrace overlooking Aguas Calientes.
(L-R) Aguas Calientes/Next to the Urubamba River, A Street in Aguas Calientes, Breakfast at the Hotel Rupa Rupa High Jungle B&B
Machu Picchu Entry Tickets & The Circuits
If you don’t get your tickets from the train company you can get them on the official website. Which ticket you buy depends on what you want to see and how much time you want to spend seeing it.
There are 5 ticket options listed on the website;
(1) Llaqta de Machu Picchu (Circuit 1, 2, 3 or 4) - $152 Soles (around $40 USD)/Adult, $70 Soles (around $20 USD)/Minor
(2) Circuit 1 or 2 + Inca Bridge - $152 Soles (around $40 USD)/Adult, $70 Soles (around $20 USD)/Minor
(3) Circuit 3 + Machu Picchu Mountain - $200 Soles ($54 USD)/Adult, $118 Soles ($32 USD)/Minor
(4) Circuit 4 + Waynapicchu Mountain - $200 Soles ($54 USD)/Adult, $118 Soles ($32 USD)/Minor
(5) Circuit 4 + Huchuypicchu Mountain - $152 Soles (around $40 USD)/Adult, $70 Soles (around $20 USD)/Minor
For option 1, you pick one of the four circuits/paths and walk through it. For the rest of the options, you are walking a circuit as well as doing something extra; in option 2 you are also hiking to see the Inca Bridge, and in options 3-5 you are also hiking one of the mountains that surround the ruins of Machu Picchu.
Let me explain the circuits:
Circuit 1: Includes the classic "Machu Picchu Postcard" photo spot, goes through the upper and lower terraces**, takes 2.5 hours
Circuit 2: Includes the classic "Machu Picchu Postcard" photo spot, goes through the upper and lower terraces, takes 3.5 hours
Circuit 3: Mainly lower terraces, takes 1.5 hours
Circuit 4: Mainly lower terraces, takes 2.5 hours
**the upper terraces have the views of the ruins, while the lower terraces
As I mentioned earlier, you must also pick a time slot. The ruins are open from 6am to 5:30pm and the last allowed entry is 3pm.
From Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu: Bus vs Hike
Whenever it’s close to your time slot you have two options for getting to the top of the mountain to the ancient ruins of Machu Picchu - you can either hike up the 1,600 steps to the top or take a bus. There are many busses that run to and from Machu Picchu; they're located across the river from the train station and are impossible to miss as they're constantly picking people up and dropping them off. It takes around 20 minutes to drive to the top and costs $12USD/adult or $7 USD/child each way; tickets can be purchased at a ticket counter not too far from where the busses park - ask a local or inquire at the information booth in the center of town for the exact location. Since we hiked up I'm not sure exactly where it's located, but there are many signs and it won't be a problem. You don’t need to reserve this in advance.
Aguas Calientes. If you look closely on the left, you will see one of the busses that goes to and from Machu Picchu. There is a sign in front of it saying "Bus Ticket" with an arrow pointing to the street which tickets are sold.
If you are not hiking one of the extra mountains, I recommend choosing circuit 2, whether that be alone or with the Inca Bridge, and hiking up to the ruins from Aguas Calientes rather than taking the bus. It also saves you $12-24 on bus tickets. This is what we did and really enjoyed it - but again if you have purchased a ticket to hike one of the mountains you must take the bus or you'll be too tired to take on your other mountain. You are not allowed to start hiking up until one hour before your entry time - keep this in mind because we did feel a little rushed on the way up, but it was so worth it! The hiking entrance is at the base of the mountain, called "Camino Peatonal a Machu Picchu" and is right next to the Urubamba River Bridge - it's around a 15-20 minute walk alongside the river from the train station. There are guards at the entrance and you must show your tickets and passports - I believe we needed to show passports at the main entrance on the mountain as well, so make sure you have them with you so as to not risk getting turned away. We took the bus back down after - there is a ticket counter at the entrance of Machu Picchu so you can buy them up there.
(Scroll Photos Using the Arrow on the Right Side)
(L-R) The Urubamba River Bridge, The Start of the Hiking Trail, Me Hiking up the Trail, Me Extremely out of Breath Mid-Trail Posing in Front of the View
I hope this Machu Picchu travel guide helps you plan your trip to see one of the seven wonders of the world, Machu Picchu. Please like, comment, and subscribe to my blog!!
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